Pogradec and Korçë: Lake Ohrid and Albania's Cultural Heartland

Most visitors head for the coast or the northern mountains, but the south-east of Albania offers a very different, calmer experience. Here you find the clear waters of Lake Ohrid, a city known for its cafés, beer and elegant old streets, and the remote churches of Voskopojë. The area suits travellers who prefer cooler air, quiet lanes and good food over crowds and beach clubs.

Pogradec and Lake Ohrid

Pogradec is a lakeside town on the western shore of Lake Ohrid, which is shared with North Macedonia. Ohrid is one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe and is protected as a World Heritage site on both sides of the border. The water is exceptionally clear, and in summer the pebble and sand beaches along the promenade fill with locals and visitors. In the evening, the waterfront cafés and restaurants are the place to be. Try koran, the lake's endemic trout, which is a local speciality and should be eaten here, where it is fresh.

Korçë

Korçë is a city of around 50,000 people on a high plain, often described as Albania's cultural capital. It has leafy boulevards, European-style buildings from the early twentieth century, an old bazaar that has been restored, and a long tradition of education, literature and music. The city is famous for its beer, brewed locally since the 1920s, and for its autumn festivals. Spend a day wandering the pedestrian streets, visiting the Orthodox cathedral and the Museum of Medieval Art, and sampling the local cuisine.

Voskopojë

About 20 kilometres from Korçë, the mountain village of Voskopojë was once one of the largest cities in the Balkans, a centre of trade and learning in the eighteenth century. Today it is a small village, but several beautiful Orthodox churches with detailed frescoes survive. Visiting takes a few hours and gives a sense of how quiet landscapes can hide a remarkable past. Roads in the area are narrow, so allow extra time and avoid driving in snow or heavy rain.

What to eat

• Koran trout from Lake Ohrid, grilled or baked.
• Korçë's local beer and the grilled meats the city is known for.
• Local cheeses, honey and preserves from the highland villages.
• Byrek and fresh bread from the bakeries.

Getting there

Pogradec is about three hours by road from Tirana via the mountain route through Elbasan, and buses and furgons run regularly. Korçë is roughly 40 to 50 minutes further. Most visitors treat the region as a stop on a route between Tirana and the Greek border, or combine it with a visit to Ohrid across the border in North Macedonia. If you have a car, you can reach all three places in a comfortable loop.

When to go

Summer is the best time for swimming in the lake, while spring and autumn are good for walking and sightseeing, with milder temperatures. Winters can be cold and snowy, but Korçë has a warm, welcoming atmosphere, and you can combine it with a day in the nearby mountains.

If you have already seen the coast, the lake and the highlands of the south-east are a refreshing contrast.