Shkodër: Castle, Lake and the Cultural Capital of the North

Most travellers pass through Shkodër on their way to the mountains of the north, but the city is worth a night or two on its own. It is one of the oldest settlements in Albania, with a relaxed pedestrian centre, a famous castle, a rich cultural history and the largest lake in the Balkans on its doorstep. Here is how to spend your time.

Rozafa Castle

Rozafa Castle sits on a rocky hill above the confluence of three rivers and is the city's most famous landmark. Its walls date back to antiquity and were expanded by the Venetians and later the Ottomans. A local legend tells of a woman named Rozafa who was walled into the foundations so that the castle could stand, which is why the stones are said to weep. From the top you get views over the lake, the Buna and Drin rivers and the plain towards the mountains. Go late in the afternoon for softer light and cooler temperatures, and wear shoes with good grip, because the stones are uneven.

The old town and the Marubi Museum

The pedestrian centre is lined with cafés, bakeries and small shops, and it is a pleasure to wander in the evening. Do not miss the Marubi National Museum of Photography, which holds a remarkable archive of images made by the Marubi family and their successors from the nineteenth century onwards. The photographs give a vivid portrait of Albanian life, faces and landscapes, and it is a highlight for anyone interested in history or photography.

Lake Shkodër

Lake Shkodër is shared between Albania and Montenegro and is the largest lake in southern Europe. On the Albanian side, the shoreline near Shiroka offers lakeside restaurants where you can eat carp or other freshwater fish while watching the sunset. You can also take boat trips, swim at designated spots and watch for birdlife, as the wetlands are home to many species. Cycling is popular in Shkodër, and bikes can be rented in town for a ride along flat roads to the lake and back.

Gateway to the Albanian Alps

Shkodër is the main base for reaching Theth, Valbonë and the Lake Koman ferry. Minibuses and organised transfers leave from the city in the morning, and many guesthouses can help arrange transport. If you plan a mountain trip, spend the night before in Shkodër, stock up on cash and supplies and leave early.

What to eat

• Tavë kosi, baked lamb or chicken with a savoury yoghurt topping.
• Fish from the lake, especially carp, grilled or baked.
• Fresh bread, byrek (savoury pie) and sweet pastries from the bakeries in the centre.
• Strong Albanian coffee in one of the many cafés along the pedestrian streets.

Getting there and around

Shkodër is about two hours by road from Tirana, with regular buses and furgons. The centre is compact and easy to explore on foot, and the castle is a short taxi ride or a longer walk from the middle of town. Many visitors combine Shkodër with a trip across the border to Montenegro, which is only a short drive away.

With its castle, museums, lake and food, Shkodër is a fine place to slow down before or after the mountains.