Berat and Gjirokastër: Albania's Two UNESCO Stone Towns

Albania has two towns that appear together on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and they could hardly look more different. Berat is white, airy and full of windows. Gjirokastër is grey, sturdy and built from stone. Both are beautifully preserved Ottoman towns, both are excellent for slow walking and both are far quieter than the coast. Together they make up the cultural heart of any Albanian trip.

Berat: the city of a thousand windows

Berat sits on a hillside above the Osum river, about two hours south of Tirana. White Ottoman houses rise in tight rows, and their many windows give the town its nickname. The old town has three parts. Mangalem, on the left bank, is the largest quarter and sits beneath the castle. Gorica lies across the old stone bridge on the opposite bank. The castle itself, the Kalaja, crowns the hill, and it is still inhabited, so you will see laundry, gardens and small guesthouses among the ruins and Byzantine churches.

• Climb to the castle in the late afternoon for the best light, and stay for the sunset over the river.
• Visit the Onufri Museum, which holds Byzantine icons by the painter Onufri, within the castle's cathedral.
• Walk across the Gorica bridge at night when it is lit; the view of Mangalem is lovely.
• Spend the second morning on a side trip to the Osumi Canyons, south of town.

Plan one night in Berat as a minimum. Two nights lets you see the castle, the two quarters and the surrounding countryside at an easy pace. Wear shoes with grip; the cobbled lanes are steep and can be slippery after rain. The castle road is narrow, and parking is easier in the free lots at the foot of Mangalem than inside the walls. Respect the people who live in the castle by staying out of private gardens and doorways.

Gjirokastër: the stone city

Gjirokastër lies in a valley in the south, about three hours from Berat and about an hour inland from Sarandë. The old town climbs a steep hillside beneath one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans. The houses are tall, fortified and roofed with heavy stone slabs, built by wealthy families who needed protection as well as comfort. The town was also the birthplace of two famous Albanians: the writer Ismail Kadare and the communist leader Enver Hoxha. Their stories are part of what makes Gjirokastër feel layered and complex.

• Explore the fortress, which houses a small military museum and a tunnel dating from the Cold War.
• Tour the Zekate House or the Skenduli House to see an Ottoman mansion's rooms and stone fireplaces.
• Browse the old bazaar for crafts, local sweets and a coffee in the shade.
• Wander the quiet residential lanes above the bazaar, where few visitors go.

Gjirokastër is cooler than the coast in summer and often considerably cooler in winter, since it sits at a higher altitude and in a valley. The old town is pedestrian and compact but steep, so comfortable shoes are essential. It is also a good base for day trips to the Blue Eye spring, the town of Përmet and the Vjosa river, one of the last wild rivers in Europe.

How to combine them

Berat and Gjirokastër fit naturally into the classic north-to-south route: Tirana, Berat, Gjirokastër, then the coast at Sarandë. A direct bus between the two towns is not frequent, so travellers without a car usually change in Fier or Tepelenë, or use a mix of furgons and taxis. With a car, the drive takes around three hours, with the SH4 and SH8 providing scenic stretches through hills and olive groves. Ideally spend one night in each, and two if you want to hike and explore beyond the centre.

When to visit

April to October works best. Summer is hot, so start early and take a break in the middle of the day. In spring and autumn the light is softer and the streets calmer, making both towns excellent for photography. Winter visits are possible but expect cold nights, especially in Gjirokastër, and some small museums may have reduced hours.

Where to eat

In Berat, small restaurants near the river and below the castle serve grilled meats, fresh salads and local wine. In Gjirokastër, try qifqi, the town's signature rice balls, along with byrek and stuffed vegetables in the bazaar. Many places are family-run, and the most memorable meals are often the simplest ones, eaten on a terrace with a view of the roofs.

If your time in Albania is limited, these two towns offer the strongest sense of history and character. They show a country that is much older, more varied and more welcoming than the headlines suggest.