Ksamil: A Practical Guide to Albania's Most Famous Beaches

Ksamil has the clear turquoise water and the small islands that appear in almost every photo of Albania. It is also one of the busiest places in the country in summer. With a little planning you can enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed. This guide explains where the best swimming spots are, how the beach clubs work and how to make the most of a day in Ksamil.

Where Ksamil is

Ksamil sits on the southern tip of the Albanian Riviera, about 15 minutes by road from Sarandë and a short drive from the ancient ruins of Butrint. The village looks across a narrow stretch of sea to the Greek island of Corfu. Its beaches are small, sheltered and rocky in places, and the water is exceptionally clear thanks to the shallow, sandy seabed.

The beaches and the islands

The main beaches line the coast in the centre of Ksamil, with small islands just offshore. Some of the islands can be reached by swimming, and others by hiring a small boat or paddleboard from the beach. Beyond the central strip there are quieter coves reached by short walks or a small drive. The southern beaches near the Butrint road tend to be less busy and are good if you prefer a calmer spot.

How sunbeds and beach clubs work

Most of the central beach is organised into beach clubs that charge for a pair of sunbeds and an umbrella, usually with a minimum spend on food and drinks. Prices vary by season and location, and the best spots fill early in July and August. There are also small free areas where you can lay down a towel. If you want guaranteed space in peak season, arrive in the morning or ask your hotel whether it has an arrangement with a beach club.

When to go

June and September are the best months: the sea is warm, the weather is reliable and the crowds are far smaller than in July and August. Late May and early October can also be pleasant for swimming on warm days, although some beach clubs and restaurants may be closed. If you can only visit in August, go early in the day or in the late afternoon, when the day-trippers have left.

Combine Ksamil with Butrint

• Butrint is a UNESCO World Heritage site with Greek, Roman and Venetian remains set in a lagoon and forest. It takes two to three hours to explore.
• Visit Butrint in the morning, before it gets hot, and swim in Ksamil in the afternoon.
• Wear comfortable shoes, carry water and bring a hat, because shade is limited.

Where to stay and eat

Ksamil has everything from small guesthouses to larger hotels, mostly within walking distance of the sea. Staying in Sarandë is a good alternative if you want more restaurants and nightlife, with Ksamil a short drive or bus ride away. Restaurants in Ksamil serve fresh seafood and Albanian dishes, and mussels from the nearby Butrint lagoon are a local speciality.

• Bring water shoes: the seabed can be pebbly or rocky in places.
• Carry some cash, since not every beach bar accepts cards.
• Go early in summer and avoid weekends if possible.
• Respect the environment: take your rubbish with you and do not feed the fish.

Ksamil may be busy, but the water really is as beautiful as the photos suggest. With a good time of day and the right beach, it lives up to its reputation.